Snorkelling – TRAVELTRUNK.NET

‘Do you want magic mushrooms?’, the taxi driver asks the man on the first day. Taken aback, he takes time to say no. In the back the child and I are rolling with laughter. Does he look like he has them or does he look like he needs to have them? Bali is a destination to unwind but we intend to get our highs diving into Bali’s waters and beaches.

But, researching for a holiday can either be as exciting as the trip itself or exasperatingly exhausting. Like, how does one shortlist which beach to hit and which to skip when visiting an island? Bali, ‘the Island of Gods’, and among the most researched destinations by Indians this year, naturally has them all- miles of broad golden beaches, dramatic cliffs hiding pristine patches of sand, volcanic black sand beaches, white coarse coral ones. So, how to shorten that list? Each beach offers something exclusive, from swimming, surfing, snorkelling to water sports and secluded idling. Three varied ones made it to our list and we added another smaller island near Bali for good measure.

Explore-Disconnecting with the World on a Mountain Isle at Shaama

Kuta’s Cool Quotient

Giant kites flutter in the air above the lines of colourful umbrellas when we hit the beach. Earlier, during the morning walk we had encountered walkers & joggers on the pavement by the beach and surfers catching the high tide. The man tied up for an hour of surfing lesson for later at one of the shacks. So while he tired himself out trying to keep up with the waves and on the board, we sprawled on the bean bags under the umbrellas. Watching the surfers paddle out, wait patiently for ‘the one’, ride in and repeat it till the sun burnt them a burnished brown was no Baywatch moment! Of the completely commercial and tourist trap beaches we chose Kuta. Adjoining Seminyak and Canggu are trendier but more crowded. The wide public beach is lined by a boulevard, hotels, restaurants. Though the shacks at the beach provide some drinks and food and wandering hawkers stop by, we chose to hop across the road to a convenience store for chilled Bintang and hot ramen.

Discover solitude in- Batalik – A Tribute to the Human Spirit

Gili Trawangan is a Gem

First off- skip the Gili islands nearby unless you plan to spend atleast two nights there. Though the fast boats are just that but the wait at the pier seems to stretch and along with the cushion time for chaotic traffic, you end up spending almost half a day travelling. Having said that, we chose Gili Trawangan for the snorkelling. It is a tiny picturesque island of white beaches and azure waters, with no vehicles! Only horse-carts that clip-clop while they ferry people and their mounds of luggage to and fro from the pier to their accommodation and bicycles ply on a shaded road that lines the beach. It is popular for diving and snorkelling like the other two adjoining Gili islands. The diving boats head out early in the morning and then bob around just offshore for the rest of the day. While snorkelling the man and child lucked out when they spotted a Green-back turtle along with schools of small fish. Sadly the corals I saw had not survived the hordes of trampling feet. The rocks just off the beach take revenge on everyone’s feet for the corals in low tide!

The island has a bustling vibe all day and is a known party place. Brightly lit restaurants line the road in the night and on the beach strings of lights provide a canopy to chairs and tables full of youngsters but all the roads lead to the night market. A crowded, noisy affair lined with open stalls selling the choicest of the day’s catch and generous sides for a reasonable amount. One can pick and choose from an array of enticing grilled and fried seafood. In the middle there are rows of tables and chairs full of eager eaters.

Discover- Pangong Tso – The Gems in the Crown

Nusa Dua is a Snooty Do

Trying to find the place for watersports we drove through a massive Candi bentar (the traditional Balinese gate) into an immaculately landscaped haven. The BTDC (Bali Tourism Development Complex) area is like an exclusive enclave where the major names in hospitality are discreetly tucked away behind walls of artful greenery. A short walk got us to a small cove during low tide with an azure lagoon. Rows of loungers and beach umbrellas lining the small quiet beach had people reading, snoozing and soaking up the vitamins. What we were looking for was further ahead, known as the Tanjung Benoa Beach (The name does not pop up until you really zoom in on the map!) with its line of big shops for those seeking thrills on and under the waters. Think sea walk, parasailing, flying fish (Yes, you can be one too!), jet ski etal.

Find high jinks in- Part One- On the Wild Side of Outstanding Orchha

Jamboree at Jimbaran

A must visit for seafood lovers, Jimbaran beach comes into its own near sundown. Walk through the entrance of any of the restaurants lining the beach, select your choice from the day’s catch from the tubs and tanks, find a candlelit table on the festooned beach, be serenaded by a group of motley singers as your barbequed dinner fetches up while in the background the surf crashes on the sandy shore.

Discover a food trail in- A Handy Guide on How to do the Hornbill Festival

Bali is truly on an island of plenty. All you need is your swimwear and dollops of sunscreen!

So, apart from the beaches that made it to the short list, the long-listed contenders were-

Amed beach- With Mt Agung in the background and USS Liberty under the water off shore, the black sand beach is considered one of the best diving sites in Bali.

Nusa Lembongan island- Just half an hour by fast boat from Sanur in Bali, it offers a sampling of all kinds of beaches.

Fact File

Kuta-

A half an hour surfing lesson costs IDR 180,000/- approx.

Gili Trawangan-

Padangbai is where the boats for the Gili islands leave from. Getting there by fast boat including a pick up by the fast boat company itself costs IDR 2,100,000/-.(Harbour tax is additional).

Snorkelling- Hiring the gear costs IDR 50,000 for a day.

Tanjung Benoa

Watersport packages vary depending on the number of activities but a lot of bargaining is required to fix the cost.

It was blue all around. Till an aqua ring popped up below and then some more…like Loktak’s phumdis. Only these were shallow reefs. An atoll followed, with slivers of islands guarded by a long reef where the ocean broke into white surf. Finally, the flattest piece of land, barely above the water. The airport took up an entire island. Outside, across the airport’s porch, speedboats bobbed up and down, waiting to whisk guests to islands nearby and for longer hauls, on the other side, the sea planes.

Here we were for a long weekend in the island paradise of Maldives. ‘Mala dweep, the garland of islands’. Cannot vouch for the veracity of that interpretation as one of the origins of the name but it seems apt. The archipelago nation spread over a vast area of water and barely any land, lies close to the equator in the Indian Ocean. An idyllic destination of water in every shade of beautiful blue alive with coral gardens teeming with sea life, and islands of green ringed with blindingly white sand of bleached ground coral. Where coconut trees pose, leaning just so, over a translucent shoreline, to give that perfect postcard picture. Our dream getaway was a smooth run thanks to our very own master planner but if you have to do it yourself what would you need to keep in mind?

IMUGA Form

Being a visa free country for Indians means all you need are your hotel booking details, ticket, beachwear, and your passport to hop onto a flight…and the IMUGA (Maldives Immigration) form submitted online. At Delhi airport the airline guys asked me if I had filled it. I had not because the site said I could do it ‘within 96 hours of arrival/departure’. They then gave me a heart attack by informing me that not filling it would make me incur a penalty of couple of lakhs! They tried to make me fill it right then and there, delaying security clearance which nearly gave me another heart attack! I filled and sent it while boarding and waiting to take off. At Maldives’ airport nobody asked. I filled up the one to exit at the hotel. Much as I had fallen in love with place I doubt I would have enjoyed the hospitality that might have followed if I hadn’t.

Footloose and Sandal Free

It does not really matter whether it is a days or a ten day trip when it comes to women and footwear. It is all about the possibilities. So even though I had carried cabin baggage only, I had catered. (even bought fancy flats!) Our boat docked at the resort’s wooden jetty and we walked into pristine white sand. More sand carpeted the reception, no flooring. Discovered that apart from the dining area, the bar and the cottage and its veranda, there was no flooring, no paths on the tiny island.

The shoes came off outside the room and that’s where they stayed till I left for the airport. Since I had carried no beach slippers I was barefoot everywhere, curling my toes into the divine sand. Bliss! Best to check the pics of the island and resort where you are heading. Otherwise leave the heels to cool off at home.

Stash the Sunscreen but Ditch the Liquor

Duh! The first evening was slightly cloudy with a flaming Sambuca sunset. The following days were pleasantly clear with a balmy breeze and inviting calm cool waters. Perfect to put on the snorkelling gear to explore the reefs surrounding the island all day long. So, our faces got saved but the backs went from touchy red to sullen brown. We came back branded with tan lines and burnt skin that soaked in the sunburn cream. Pack a good aloe vera based one for good measure.

Liquor is prohibited in Maldives since it is a Muslim country so don’t even think of carrying that hip flask, let alone a bottle. At the airport they flashed half a dozen things they don’t appreciate you bringing along and liquor topped the list. Having said that, it is served in the resorts. But the need for a sundowner is not always factored in the resort package for a perfect holiday. You might need to pay extra for an all-inclusive.

So Near Yet So Far

Maldives is an archipelago of atolls strung north to south like a turquoise necklace. Male and the Velana airport are on adjoining islands connected by a bridge. After landing, unless you are staying in Male, getting from there to your resort will involve a speedboat, a seaplane or another plane ride and then a speed boat. Besides adding to the cost, the seaplanes do not fly after 3:30 PM or so. If you land late, it will involve an overnight stay at Male or Hulhumale.

The Seas Steal the Show

If you dream of lolling around on a sunbed with a tall cool drink and that book you’ve been meaning to read, while the rhythm of waves gently lapping the shore is all the music your ears need, then at Maldives you’ve hit the jackpot. Ditto for those diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. On our island there was a reef just off a beach portion where we had to float flat out to avoid scrapping ourselves on the corals. A coral garden teemed with the most colourful life imaginable in front of our cottage. We floated over blue-tipped and pink corals. Sighted translucent fish just beneath the surface.

Swam with polka dotted, stripped, shaded and patterned fish and clams keeping time with the waves. Chanced upon frisky clown fish in the dancing arms of sea anemones and reef sharks going about their business. Oh, ah-ed over squadrons of Manta Rays gliding in front of the bar deck! Land looks bland in comparison. Only.. do not touch anything, it just might be poisonous. Life is as fragile as it is beautiful there and we saw swathes of bleached coral graveyards too. Check out the activity packages offered by your resort to max the wonders at hand.

Souvenir Squirrel’s need for Retail Therapy-

You are rejuvenated albeit a little charred but FOMO will not let you board a plane home without some retail therapy? For a shopaholic and souvenir squirrel for whom no holiday is complete without the proverbial acorn, Male is your best bet. Head to Majeedhee Magu or Chaandanee Magu, the two main streets lined with shops. Inhabited islands have their few shops too. The resorts have their souvenir shops and some stock exclusive things so do check them out but the variety would be limited and the prices exorbitant. In the airport after you clear immigration, opposite the perfumes and cosmetic section there is a shop for those last-minute token gifts.

Maldives is a bang worth every buck whether you are a laidback luxury lover or a water baby. You’ll come back dreaming of it and the sandbar would have been set high for any beach holiday to follow.

Fact File-

Getting There-

Velana International Airport is very well connected.
From there you can take a taxi, bus or ferry to Male.
Your resort could be domestic flight, seaplane or speedboat away. There are no local ferries to the resorts. It is best to tie up the transfer to your accommodation beforehand.
Local ferries connect Male to nearby atolls. Within the atoll ferries connect the islands.

Staying-

It depends on what you want to do. For a laidback holiday there is a plethora of resorts to choose from which go from chic to the uber luxurious. For budget travellers or those focused on diving, Male and other inhabited islands have hotels, guest houses and perhaps a few Airbnbs which are more reasonable.

We stayed at the Embudu Village Resort.

Best Time-

With its tropical climate it is a year-round destination. The high season runs from December to April. Monsoon season is not a bad time either. We went June end.

Tag: Snorkelling

4 Different Experiences at 4 Bali Beaches

7 Things on My Mind about Maldives