I wish I had the luxury of slow travel! To spend days in a place.. I’m sure most of us yearn for that but till the horses grow wings, I know I am going to be spending just a few days in a place and I need to stretch those days. Not cram them with mindless visits to every place mentioned but, in my own way, savour the essence as much as I can of each place I do visit. Like the two evenings in Bukhara were spent at the Po-i complex, sitting on the steps of the mosque, taking in the lit monuments while the place was overrun with tourists and locals. It was noisy and vibrant and the next evening it was almost deserted and great for photography while being peaceful and contemplative.
Uzbekistan is a must visit for history buffs being at the heart of the fabled Silk Route. It has stunning monuments painstakingly restored (probably better than what they might have been originally!) For foodies there is the cuisine so familiar yet so distinct. The cultural links run deep (Babur came from there with his tarbooz!) and they love us there! (so happy to meet Indians) An eight day trip is a minimum. So here is an itinerary to help you organize it.
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Day 1-
1. The cheapest flight is at night to Tashkent from Delhi. It puts you there in less than three hours and Tashkent is half an hour behind so you land there at 12:30am Tashkent time.
2. Check into your hotel and catch up on the zzz.
Note- Reconfirm the check-in timings. We got a rude shock because our hotel cancelled our booking without informing us since we were reaching so late. Something lost in translation. Adventurous but not the best beginning to the trip, especially in the middle of the night. They accommodated us at a nearby hotel immediately but still…
Day 2-
1. Tank up on the amazing breakfast spread and it was quite the dastarkhwan, everywhere.
2. Head to the Hazrati Imam complex. Look up in awe at the roof of the Khazrati Imam Mosque. View the oldest Koran and other exquisite ones in the small Muyi Mubarak Madrassa in the middle and browse through a small market in the Barak Khan madrassa at the back. A humungous new Islamic Civilization complex adjoining this is still in the works.
3. Visit Chorsu bazaar. (remember to ask for Bazaar and not market, that is another place!)
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4. Lunch at one of the small eateries behind it, if you already have not been offered to sample from the mounds of dry fruits and snacked on the juiciest fruits and drunk fresh compote.
5. Head to Tashkent North Railway Station to catch an overnight train to Khiva. Enjoy being welcomed by liveried staff, sleep in a slightly cramped 1st class compartment and dine on the yummiest but greasy plov in the dining car. (I think it was only for the staff but they generously shared it with us!)
Notes– Though there is a separate entrance for women, once inside you can wander all over in the Khazrati Mosque.
The entry fee at the Muyi Mubarak Madrassa is 50,000som.
Pro Tip– Bargaining at the markets is expected and a 20% reduction is the norm.
The train to Khiva departs at 6:15PM. Reach a little early since all train stations have a security check.
Day 3-
1. Reach Khiva by 11 AM. Head to the hotel, freshen up and head to Itchan Kala. Buy the entry tickets from the West gate and get a guide.
2. Lunch at Café Zarafshon.
3. Wander the bylanes of this ancient citadel.
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4. To enjoy the sunset and have dinner with a view head to Terrassa Café.
Pro Tips- The entry ticket to Itchan Kala costs 200,000 som per person.
Carry an umbrella or a hat.
Book a table at Terrassa café well in advance since they sell out fast.
Getting a guide here is a good idea. Although it is a small citadel but with labyrinthine alleys.
Day 4-
1. Head early in the morning to Itchan Kala and buy a ticket to go up the ramparts to get a bird’s eye view (whether it is worth the price is debatable) or just walk through the still inhabited parts of this ancient place and watch the place come to life as people begin to open their businesses and go about their mundane chores.
2. Go back to the hotel, grab a good breakfast and check out.
3. Catch a train or drive down to Bukhara.
4. Reach Bukhara late in the evening. and check in.
5. Walk into the lively paved streets of old Bukhara. If you are up to it stroll till the Po-i-Kalyan complex.
6. Have dinner at the Old Bukhara Restaurant or catch a performance (mixed reviews) and dinner at the Nadir Divan Begi Madrassa.
Pro tip- If you drive to Bukhara the Khorezem fortresses fall enroute.
Stay in Old Bukhara.
The train leaves Khiva at 11:10 AM and reaches Bukhara at 6:15 PM.
We stayed at Hotel Fatima.
Day 5-
1. Before breakfast catch a cab or walk to the Ark of Bukhara and Bola Hauz Mosque.
2. Head back to the hotel, have breakfast and slather on the sunscreen.
3. Wander back towards Ulug’Bek Madrassa and end up at the Po-i-Kalyan Ensemble. Explore Kalan Mosque.
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4. Go bargain hunting for carpets and kilims in Toqi Zargaron or Toki Sarrofon, the old domed markets of Bukhara or peep into a functioning foundry where knives are made near Toqi Telpakfurushon.
5. Spend the evening on the steps of Poi-i-Kalyan Ensemble all lit up like a ripe tarbooz with a blue covering, just soaking in the colours and the Kalon Tower all lit up!
Pro Tip– The Ark of Bukhara Museum opens at 9AM.
All the Madrassas now house shops save Mir-i-Arab Madrassa which is a functional theological school.
The Kalan Mosque’s entry costs 150,000 som.
Day 6-
1. Catch the early morning train to Samarkand.
2. Check-in and head early to Shah-i-Zinda to beat the crazy crowds that fetch up later there.
3. After breakfast visit Bibi Khanym Mausoleum and wander into Siyob Bazaar adjoining it.
4. Grab a bite near the market.
5. Head to Amir Timur’s mausoleum and take in the stunning interiors early in the evening.
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6. Wander over to Registan Square. Spend the evening on the steps of the Square outside the barricade or catch a performance inside.
7. Dine at Labi G’or across the street with live music and drinks.
Pro tip–
A Shah-i-Zinda ticket costs 15,000 som. Take your time here for the colours are truly astounding!
Registan tickets cost 65,000. It is valid for the full day. Plan to see it in the day time and evening on the same day if you want to budget a bit.
Bibi Khanym mausoleum entry costs 40,000 som.
Emir Timur’s mausoleum entry is 40,000 som.
Note– We stayed at Hotel Jasmina. Good place with a fabulous location.
Day 7-
1. Explore Registan Square at leisure. Have coffee in the tiny café on the first floor of Ulug Beg Madrassa and watch a calligrapher at work below. Be awed by the interiors of Tilya-Kori Madrassa.
2. Visit smaller monuments and places of interest scattered in Samarkand, the heart of Timur’s empire.
3. Finish any left-over shopping at Siyob bazaar.
Pro Tip– Buy the famous Samarkand Paper!
Siyob Bazaar has some very good quality ceramics.
Day 8-
1. Catch the Afrosiyob train to Tashkent.
2. Leave the luggage at the railway station or check into a hotel and then take the metro and explore the beautifully done up metro stations.
3. Get off at Chorsu Bazaar for last minute souvenir and gift shopping and the best dry fruit bargains. My musk melon struck travel companions got the juiciest ones back, with the indulgent aid of the hotel.
4. Catch the night flight back to Delhi.
Pro Tips-
The cloakrooms at the railway stations are well organised and cheap.
Afrosiyob is the bullet train.
A metro ticket has a flat rate.
Points to Ponder
1. English is not widely spoken or understood. So have a translator app handy.
2. Pure vegetarian fare is limited mostly to cheeses, some salads and fruits. Otherwise, it is mostly lamb, beef and sometimes chicken.
3. The mosques require a headscarf but they don’t seem to be fanatical about it and in big mosques they are available outside.
4. The forex card was an utter waste! Uzbeki som was not available. Carry dollars in cash for easy and better rate of conversion.
5. Get a SIM card as soon as you land and use the Yandex app for cabs. It is convenient and very reasonable.
6. Carry your own water bottle.